Oeko-tex
Focus on Chemical Transparency
Ten years after the introduction of the OEKO-TEX ECO PASSPORT, the organization is taking stock—and at the same time sending a clear signal about the future of chemical management in the textile and leather industries.
With more than 65,000 certified products, over 2,100 certificates, and customers in more than 50 countries, the standard has established itself as a key guide to safe chemicals.
To mark its anniversary, OEKO-TEX published a comprehensive analysis of current laboratory data for the first time. The results clearly show where the industry’s greatest challenges continue to lie. Exceedances of limit values are particularly evident in certain groups of dyes, such as disperse, vat, and sulfur dyes. Substances such as quinoline, aniline, and dimethyl fumarate (DMFU) are particularly notable in this regard. For OEKO-TEX, these results underscore the importance of independent laboratory testing throughout the textile supply chain.
Fluorinated chemicals also remain a key issue. While the incidence of PFAS in ECO PASSPORT testing remains low, laboratories are simultaneously recording an increasing presence of total fluorine. To enable more precise differentiation between PFAS and non-PFAS sources in the future, OEKO-TEX has developed a new differentiation method. This is the organization’s response to the growing regulatory requirements surrounding fluorinated compounds.
For OEKO-TEX, this is no longer solely about compliance. “Chemical transparency is no longer a voluntary goal. It is increasingly becoming a legal obligation,” explains CEO Dr. Alfred J. Beerli. ECO PASSPORT helps companies establish quality management systems, train employees, and design responsible waste disposal processes.
The "Greener Chemistry" approach encompasses much more than simply replacing individual problematic substances. What is crucial is to consider the entire production process—from raw material quality to energy efficiency and wastewater management, all the way to biodegradability at the end of the product life cycle.
ECO PASSPORT is now particularly widespread in the global manufacturing markets of China and India, which together account for about two-thirds of all certificates. For OEKO-TEX, this is a clear indication that sustainable chemical management is gaining importance in regions where production volumes and chemical use are particularly high.
With new criteria for biodegradability and greater integration into platforms such as ZDHC Gateway and The BHive, OEKO-TEX is continuously refining the standard. After ten years, ECO PASSPORT is increasingly establishing itself as a strategic tool for a more transparent and responsible supply chain.
