Past Forward: Robert Geller on the role of tradition in the menswear of the future

How can the status quo of menswear be described? We sat down with Robert Geller, Head of Menswear Design at Rag & Bone, to answer this question. A conversation about the importance of brand DNA in his design process, the role of emotions in the debate about relevance and the value of individuality today.

In many conversations with retailers, a certain lack of direction is currently noticeable - at the same time, anything seems possible. How do you classify the current phase of menswear?

What I am observing is a return to the past. After the dominance of streetwear and hype culture, many people are longing for more elegance again - for tailoring. But nobody wants to give up the comfort we have become accustomed to over the last few years. At Rag & Bone, we have the advantage of being able to draw on a DNA that lies precisely in this hybridity: a mix of casual and tailored, denim and precision.

How much does the history and DNA of Rag & Bone influence your daily design work - and how do you manage not to remain stuck in the past, but to interpret it in a contemporary way?

For me, every collection starts with a historical or cultural narrative. The foundation is the brand's DNA - New York, denim, functionality. But we build new stories on this every season. Of course, I myself contribute my assessment of colors, cuts and my perspective. But the core remains this specific signature: casual, but well thought out - rough, but with intellect.

The classic male role models are becoming increasingly less relevant. Does menswear still need role models today?

I believe that we are moving into an era of individuality. The most important impulses are increasingly coming from within. I am convinced that when people find out what really suits them, they automatically look good. Today, it's about finding your own language. Social media has of course accelerated this on the one hand, but has also made it more superficial on the other. For me, the goal shouldn't be to follow someone - but to find yourself.

In womenswear, we are seeing a shift from status to substance. Does this also apply to menswear?

Yes, absolutely. Consumers are thinking more consciously today. They invest in items that last, that they really love - not in whatever the algorithm dictates. This is a development that I very much welcome. For me, the peak phase of the hype circus was quite stressful. Today, it's more about craftsmanship and quality again. Someone once said: "Subtlety has died in the digital age" - I think that's just starting to reverse again.

One term that has kept us very busy at style in progress over the last few months is "relevance". What does relevance mean to you - especially in the context of menswear?

Relevance today has a more emotional component than in the past. It's no longer about what is loud or dominant, but what appeals personally. For me, relevance is closely linked to attention, to awareness. If you know yourself well, you can also recognize what is relevant to you. It is a counter-trend to externally controlled consumption - towards more personal responsibility, more depth. And that's what makes working as a designer so fulfilling at the moment.