"We think from the material"

With its Myths and White Sand labels, GDM Srl has quietly and consistently developed into one of the most exciting players in the premium segment.

In the last six years, turnover has quadrupled and the company is now represented in around 500 stores worldwide. With a new 3,000 square meter headquarters in San Mauro Pascoli, Italy, the Bernardi family is sending out a clear signal: Growth comes with attitude and relevance starts with the product. An interview with the brothers Simone and Giovanni.

Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: GDM Srl

The last few years have been a successful ride - bucking the industry trend. What has been your key to relevance?

Simone Bernardi, Co-CEO GDM Srl: We have grown at a time when many have shrunk because we have never tried to be everything to everyone. Two brands, two languages: Myths stands for modern, timeless elegance, White Sand is more urban, more fashionable - more street, more silhouette, more now.

Giovanni Bernardi, Co-CEO GDM Srl: Relevance does not come from volume, but from a product that is on point - at the right time, for the right target group. That was our focus: no compromises in the fabric development and design of our pants.

Simone Bernardi: Exactly. For us, relevance doesn't mean trendy, but real. Our motto is Research Attitude, because we think in terms of materials. Ice Cotton, for example, is already a bestseller. Ice Wool will follow this season - same philosophy, in wool.

Your expertise in trouser production was certainly an advantage. How did the brand development come about?

Simone Bernardi: Originally, we were a supplier to a Pantalonificio, founded in 1981 with a focus on Bermuda. When I joined at the end of the 1990s, we developed step by step. Myths was our first step out of contract manufacturing with our own signature. White Sand followed later.

Giovanni Bernardi: White Sand was our creative outlet. We wanted to show that Italian craftsmanship can also be bold and light - with volume, techno fabrics and new silhouettes.

How much have you grown?

Giovanni Bernardi: Seven years ago we had a turnover of three million euros, today it's around 13.5 million and that's without borrowed capital or commission sales. Everything is based on real orders and genuine trust. Our new headquarters with 3,000 square meters was only logical - there was no more room in the old HQ. (laughs)

Simone Bernardi: We supply around 500 stores - around 200 per brand abroad. Customers such as Lodenfrey, Gruener and Braun Hamburg show us that if the product is convincing, it speaks for itself. What makes us particularly happy is that each store has its own character and we are allowed to be part of it.

You managed the generational change without any drama. How did you manage that?

Simone Bernardi: Because our father was never authoritarian. He gave us responsibility early on and also allowed us to make mistakes. That's how you learn to manage a company in a stable way.

Giovanni Bernardi: For us, leadership means trust. No ego, no micromanagement. I'm responsible for White Sand and production, Simone takes care of Myths and sales, our sister Francesca is in controlling and is occasionally supported by our father Luciano. But we give each other space. That works well.

What are you planning next?

Giovanni Bernardi: Continue to internationalize - but in a targeted manner. We don't want to hang out everywhere, but where it fits.

Simone Bernardi: And we are continuing to invest in fabrics. Our new machine-washable vintage wool - 100 percent natural fiber, non-iron, zero care - is a statement for me.