"Luxury has become more individual"

Why can a functional jacket have more value than a silk blouse? In this interview, Mela Bauer from Melagence talks about a new seriousness in womenswear - and what the Camino has to do with luxury.

Interview: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Melagence

The signs have changed in women's contemporary: Ten years ago, designers set the tone, today women decide for themselves what to wear. Is that also your observation?

Mela Bauer, owner of the Melagence agency: Yes, a lot has changed. The target group today is often older and more reflective. But I see a contradiction: are women really more self-determined? Or haven't new role models simply been added via social media?

So the role models have been replaced?

That's how I feel, yes. You used to be a Dries van Noten woman or a Prada woman. Today it's more fluid. Inspiration comes from role models that we look for digitally. That's why entire business models are based on Insta ads and influencer marketing.

What does this mean for fashion itself?

That functionality is a must. Performance wear has long since arrived in luxury, as collabs between Louis Vuitton and soccer clubs show. Nobody puts on a cotton jacket in the rain just because it looks good! What counts are durable materials, weather protection and good design.

With what consequence for the price?

Transparency is crucial today. If a dress from Christian Wijnants costs 1,000 euros, it must be clear why: because the prints are created in-house and produced in Europe. People compare, they are informed. They recognize when the price-performance ratio for a T-shirt from John Smedley is more comprehensible than from The Row.

Lifestyle also plays a central role. Fashion is no longer just an expression of style, is it?

No. Influencers not only show off their new bag, but also their morning routine, their bowl, their favorite coffee. Fashion is often just a companion, but it has to go with everything.

Even among younger consumers?

Partly. Among men, I see a great openness to functional high-end brands such as Arc'teryx, Veilance or Satisfy. They will sometimes pay 800 euros for a jacket if the quality convinces them. When it comes to basics, women tend to go for Cos and combine it with a designer piece. But even they are no longer fooled.

Keyword community: How important is this sense of belonging in the fashion world today?

Very much so, as the Berlin Marathon recently showed me. Nike, Adidas, but also smaller labels organize events and form running clubs. After the run, everyone stands together on the street and drinks their matcha latte. For many brands, such events are more important than any fashion week.

What else makes fashion relevant for you?

That the brand stands by its identity. Instead of adapting trends, brands should tell stories that suit them, like Aeyde or Jacquemus. Or Arc'teryx, who say: Our red jacket is for mountain rescuers. Period.

Does this shift the concept of luxuryconcept?

Luxury is no longer just status or price, but is defined individually. I walked the Camino de Santiago in April. Taking the time to do it was a real luxury! Because luxury is not something you simply consume. It's about the things that honestly touch us.