Michel Mayer
Craftsmanship & Attitude
For 30 years, Michel Mayer has been synonymous with a consistent blend of design, craftsmanship, and sustainable production. A conversation about the renaissance of the atelier concept, new forms of customer relationships, and the future of independent design labels.
Your label, Michel Mayer, is celebrating its 30th anniversary. When you look back on this period, what developments have had a particularly significant impact on the brand and the fashion industry?
Of course, a lot has changed—starting with the way we communicate and work. In the past, we used to send out pictures and catalogs; today, much of that happens digitally. At the same time, our basic concept has hardly changed. On the contrary: the combination of our studio, in-house production, and direct interaction is perhaps more relevant today than ever before.
When we first started out, combining the shop and studio was primarily a practical decision. For me, it was the most logical way to bring design and production together under one roof. Today, people would deliberately choose this model as a way to promote transparency, sustainability, and quality assurance. I find it very exciting that this idea is so relevant again after 30 years.
What makes being close to the creative process so valuable to your customers?
I think it’s about bringing more depth to how we engage with products. People want to understand again how and where things are made. It makes a difference whether you’re looking at a finished garment or witnessing the process firsthand. With us, customers get a behind-the-scenes look at the development process—they see materials and prototypes, and they can get involved. This creates a completely different relationship with the product.
We are not a traditional custom tailoring shop, but rather a design studio. However, our studio-like atmosphere is an essential part of our identity. That’s why we’ve adapted our processes accordingly and now rely more heavily on appointments. This allows us to focus more intently on individual clients while also better safeguarding the creative process.
Are your customers' attitudes toward fashion and consumption changing?
Our regular customer is a very discerning shopper. She cares about quality, materials, and how a product is made. It’s not just about which label is on a garment, but about how it feels, how it fits, and how well it’s made.
How has this changed the sourcing process?
It has become significantly more complex. In the past, you could find high-quality products at a fair price—today, the gap has widened. We rely heavily on long-standing relationships with suppliers. You have to know who you can trust, because not every production chain can be fully controlled. For me, though, a material must not only be sustainably traceable, but above all, it has to work. It has to feel good and hold up in everyday life. Especially with evening wear, I think it’s important that a dress isn’t just for a single moment, but can be worn again and again.
How do you create your collections?
The process is very fluid. I don’t work with traditional sketches or a completely fixed plan; instead, I build on an initial model as I go. In the winter, we usually start with a coat. For me, developing a collection is a collaborative process: a key part of it is working with my patternmaker, Monica Ferrari-Krieger. The final product is always a combination of different ideas.
After 30 years, a look ahead: What trends will shape the future of your label—and the industry as a whole?
I hope that the trend toward higher quality and greater awareness continues. A lot is already happening, but we’re not yet where we need to be. Especially when it comes to sustainability, we need more transparency and more education. Many terms are used without any clarity about what they actually mean. Customers need to be able to better understand what they’re buying and the impact of their decisions. For us, this means consistently staying the course: with our own production, a distinct style, and a commitment to creating fashion that brings long-term joy.
