Humanoid
"If you're crazy enough, go for it!"
Daan Berkhoff talks about the rebirth of a brand that was essentially finished, and about the courage to do less, but to do it more consciously.
Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Humanoid
Daan, Humanoid has experienced a kind of rebirth. How did that come about?
Daan Berkhoff, co-owner and COO of Humanoid: The brand was founded in 1981. When it became clear in 2021 that the company was insolvent, Charlotte Verdegaal and I sat there and thought: This can't be the end. Humanoid is such a special brand, with a history and substance! We had no idea how to restart the business, but we wanted to try. So we told the insolvency administrator that we wanted to continue, and we also spoke to co-founder Sandra Harmsen. She said: "If you're crazy enough, that's exactly the spirit with which we founded Humanoid." So she gave us her blessing, and that was the moment. We gathered all our money and our people and bought the brand.
With what strategy?
Back to basics with just two collections a year. Eight people who do everything in-house again: design, cutting, warehousing. We want to see, feel, and understand what we do. We manufacture in Europe and rely on long-standing relationships, working with many suppliers for 30 years.
Humanoid as a sustainable brand?
Let's say instead: Humanoid is conscious. Thirty percent of the collection comes from deadstock fabrics in our archive. We make every decision in a way that makes sense, both ecologically and economically.
Your aesthetic is unique.
We don't really try to rebel against anything, even though there is a slightly rebellious element to our womenswear, which we call punk sophistication. Our origins are in punk, but translated into elegance. We bring opposites into harmony: femininity and masculinity, muted colors with strong color accents. Something that invites reflection.
How is trade developing?
France is performing very strongly, Spain is growing. In German-speaking countries, we work with stores that prefer to be small and unique rather than large and interchangeable, stores that understand us. We don't make womenswear for everyone. But for those who feel it – wonderful!
