Substance Over Status

Logos, labels, luxury? Things of the past. Today, womenswear is no longer defined by big brands, but by the women who wear it. Trends are no longer the decisive factor, but rather whether fashion reflects the lives of consumers. The realization that fashion still needs to earn its place in life.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Brands

Has the balance of power reversed for good? Contemporary womenswear is undergoing a major transformation, one that is both organic and progressive. We are in the midst of this shift. Style is no longer dictated by brand design but interpreted individually. The one trend or dominant brand no longer exists; a new diversity is shaping fashion instead. Looks with feminine coolness are not loud but rather radiate a certain nonchalance and naturalness. The cuts? They are carefully crafted and yet relaxed. It almost seems as if contemporary womenswear has grown up. “Customers demand universally applicable clothing that suits their lifestyles,” says Timothy Hoferer of the Modeist sales agency. “Instead of being restrictive, fashion adapts to the everyday lives of women who often fill several roles simultaneously.” With this in mind, the agency added Less by JNBY, a collection from the JNBY stable, to its portfolio in summer 2024. It is available at retailers such as Donna of Hannover, Laufsteg of Augsburg, and Bailly Diehl of Frankfurt. “The style is clean with sophisticated details, while the quality and price are spot on – customers immediately recognize whether the price is justified,” says Timothy Hoferer. “I am convinced that the collection still has great growth potential.”

“More than ever, fashion needs to provide a reason to buy,” says Elisa Gaito of the eponymous Milan-based sales agency. “Merely serving status is no longer sufficient. Contemporary womenswear has evolved and now bears cultural and sociological references.” “Women are no longer willing to buy overpriced fashion that is not worth their money,” says Petra Esparza McAlpine, whose agency represents brands such as Simkhai, Harris Wharf London, and Labo.Art. “Logos are barely relevant anymore, with quality becoming super important instead. The mindset has fundamentally changed.”

French Twist

Quality and wearable chic at a reasonable price. These attributes are often ascribed to French brands in particular and they are currently in high demand on an international level. Collections such as Isabel Marant Étoile, Sandro, Sessùn, and, more recently, Lemaire are but a few examples – and the niche is vibrant. “French contemporary is absolutely on the rise,” explains Regis Benabou, whose MAB Fashion Agency markets the Ba&sh brand in German-speaking countries. “Their feminine style is expressed with casual confidence, while the looks refuse to follow any particular trend and can be worn in a variety of contexts. What is crucial, however, is that the price-performance ratio is just as attractive as the brand image.”

Thus, contemporary wear also appeals to a new generation that has grown up with Uniqlo, COS, or Arket and has learned that excellent quality can be affordable. The target group is evolving – away from the purely trend-conscious customer towards the more discerning shopper. Many younger B2C labels, including Sézane and Soeur, have injected even more dynamism into this process via social media. “We are in a noticeable state of transition,” confirms Mila Naderer of Bluma Store in Linz. “The last few years have been dictated by fast fashion and trends were meant to be consumed immediately. Now even young people are realizing that this approach is too short-lived.” In her store, she stocks Samsøe Samsøe, Rotate, and Baum und Pferdgarten, among others. “Our customers expect a range that is suitable for everyday use with long-lasting quality, but not at exorbitant prices.”

There is another attribute that influences the new buying habits: “Today, no collection can survive without a cool image,” says Petra Esparza McAlpine. “When women discover a new label in a store these days, they immediately scrutinize the image on Instagram.” The key is how the label communicates – whether it tells a story and, crucially, whether the lifestyle matches their own. Esparza McAlpine cites the Rhea collection, new to her agency, as an example: “At second glance, every piece reveals something special, such as a ruffle, extra-long sleeves, or a deep V-neck that appeals to young women in particular.” Purchase prices from 60 Euros provide further convincing arguments.

A New Understanding

Uniqueness, as offered by some niche labels, is gaining in significance. With Nous Antwerp, Lore Heyman has created a collection that emphasizes craftsmanship: tie-dye and shibori dyeing techniques yield favorite pieces that are as special as they are timeless. “Our fashion is highly individual, whilst being comfortable and easy to wear,” explains Lore Heyman. “Instead of mass-produced clothing, we strive to offer an honest product that is only available in limited quantities at reasonable prices between 119 and 389 Euros. Modern women expect fashion to offer added value and be functional. For example, a hand-dyed silk kaftan can be worn over a bikini during a summer vacation, but it is also suitable for a night out, spiced up with a belt and a beautiful piece of jewelry.”

The traditional definition of luxury? Interchangeable. “Today, luxury is a silent presence,” Ivana Batakovic insists. “My label Batakovic Belgrade creates items that support women rather than impose on them. Our timeless designs are rooted in exceptional craftsmanship and a deep understanding of how fashion expresses personal power.” Longevity trumps impulse buying, as the demands of modern consumers have, quite simply, evolved. “Fashion has to earn its place in a woman’s life,” says Ivana Batakovic. “That’s why I create functional and versatile clothing: luxury pieces that enhance every experience, whether it’s a business trip, a special event, or a selfcare moment.”

Selfcare

Speaking of selfcare: fashion is facing ever more competition from this segment. Nowadays, women are spending less money on clothing. Not only when their personal consumption budget decreases, but also when it remains stable – it is simply allocated differently. “The woman of today takes three-day spa vacations, goes out to eat, and invests in tech or further education,” observes Petra Esparza McAlpine. “Everything related to selfcare has become very popular.” Beauty, wellness, travel, sport – all these elements define a personal lifestyle. “Fashion as an expensive status symbol is a thing of the past,” says Elisa Gaito. “A pair of trousers for 2,000 Euros that you also have to take to the dry cleaners no longer suits modern life. Today, we have other interests; fashion is only one part of our lifestyle that it must adapt to.”

Timothy Hoferer believes that, in order for the fashion business to remain viable, both collections and retailers need an even clearer and more stringent concept. “That means fewer styles, yet more depth. Colors need to be consistent, qualities convincing. Incidentally, they also need to offer a sensible size range that goes beyond M or L. If all these requirements are met, retailers can transform themselves into a brand by offering a niche product.” The Flow Store in Florence succeeds at doing just that: “Our customers are more interested in a unique look that cannot be found elsewhere and enhances their personality rather than a brand,” explains owner Gabriella Pecchioli. The key is that fashion carries meaning for the wearer. This can be reinforced through personal experience and emotion. “Our customers want to feel comfortable here. They are looking for something that will accompany them throughout the day and still look great in the evening when there is no time to change. We really enjoy advising them accordingly, right down to accessories and hairstyles. This builds trust, almost like a friendship. You form a relationship with the customer, allowing them to understand many things that you cannot explain online.”

Out of the Box

In the past, brands created a lifestyle. “Today, the entire concept has to be a lifestyle, right down to the space in the store and our advice,” explains Mila Naderer. Even in premium retail, pop-ups and events are now a widely used tool. All the more personal they need to be. Mila Naderer draws inspiration from impressions made in Copenhagen. “In April, we hosted a brunch in cooperation with our local baker,” recalls the retailer from Linz, who is keen to create a meeting place instead of a sales event. “It is important to me to think outside the box, so we offer cappuccino and excellent conversation instead of forcing people to buy. The more personal, the more enthusiasm we can inspire.”

This principle remains valid today, despite all the challenges posed by our geopolitical situation and the revolutionary innovations brought about by AI – perhaps even more so. Petra Esparza McAlpine shares this conviction: “Our lives will change fundamentally, and we are not yet sure how. This is a very challenging time for our industry. But that is precisely why it is so much fun.”