Stitching Modern Manhood
Traditional masculinity is in transition. The concept propagated for decades is no longer in keeping with the times and is undergoing a process of deconstruction. While traditional images are called into question, a counter-concept has not yet been established. The present is fragmented; the future remains intangible. This means that modern menswear involves enduring discomfort and embracing the search for orientation as a process that is often non-linear.
Text: Lisa Hollogschwandtner. Images: Brands
How valuable is an article that raises more questions than it answers? Perhaps the role of modern journalism is to highlight issues that have yet to be resolved and to deliberately preserve the space that this uncertainty creates. In a world where ChatGPT provides answers at the touch of a button, it is becoming increasingly difficult to accept ambiguity and uncertainty. But it is precisely this uncertainty that challenges us—intellectually, emotionally, socially—and harbors potential for growth. Rather than instinctively covering up this reality, confronting it head-on is a central theme of menswear for spring/summer 2025. Preconceived images are in flux, leaving consumers hungry for guidance.
How do these conditions influence purchasing decisions in the contemporary to luxury segment? This question is first directed at Rafael Duleba, contemporary buyer at the Steffl department store in Vienna. “I view the dissolution of rigid role models as a liberation. However, newfound freedom can also be overwhelming. We observe this very clearly among our customers. They are seeking guidance and often find it on social media. This is an important source of inspiration, albeit one that is largely determined by external factors.” Against this backdrop, what determines purchasing decisions? What guides a buyer in times of disorientation? “Their own voice.” For Duleba, menswear is taking on a calmer tone, with less dependence on big labels and workwear influences appearing subtly in details rather than boldly. Korean brands are doing particularly well at Steffl: “These brands do not rely on loud marketing but focus entirely on the product.”
The trend towards reduced volume and sharp product focus is echoed by Costas Karageorge, founder and buyer of The Business Fashion: “Menswear is extremely sleek and clean at the moment. If you place it all on one rack, it becomes boring very quickly. That is why we rely on a mix that is as rich in contrast as possible. Then the tailoring piece hangs next to something that is distressed and destroyed. It is precisely this friction that creates interest. Quality is always important to us. We favor natural materials such as fine cashmere or high-quality cotton. We deliberately avoid synthetics.”
Digging Deeper
Instead of referring to trends, menswear is thereby progressively focusing on attributes that go deeper. This is a radical shift in view of the past seasons, which were characterized by buzzwords such as old money aesthetic or gorpcore, which, in turn, unleashed a wave of interchangeability. The coveted look came in genuine starter packs: tailoring in neutral colors with accessories that suggest a generous inheritance, or garments adopted from the performance sector and placed in a new urban context. The latter trend has seen brands such as Arc’teryx and Salomon soar in popularity. However, these trend waves are always accompanied by a flood of imitators at the expense of long-term brand loyalty and genuine customer loyalty. Malique Morris, direct-to-consumer correspondent at The Business of Fashion, comments: “They all offer some variation of the same: accessible, timeless, stylish, and good-looking, but completely non-committal. Everything is good, yet nothing is truly great. And if everyone is well-dressed, nobody is really cool in the end.” Merely interchangeable.
Cultural Context
The renewed relevance of authenticity and the desire for individuality present a countertrend to which retail and industry are responding with answers that increasingly draw on cultural references. Katarina and Vincent Unden-Dimou, who run Anouk on Vienna’s Westbahnstraße, are no exception. A small store, firmly anchored in the heart of Vienna’s 7th district – and in that of its community. Lacoste understood the importance and celebrated its 90th anniversary by teaming up with the couple in October 2023. Austrian glass artist Robert Comploj was enlisted for the project. Under the title “from the court to the street”, he created a Lacoste tennis ball as the central element of one of his unique pieces in homage to the brand’s history. This collaboration was not an isolated case, as creative exchange is common practice at Anouk: “Our aim is not to make money at all costs. We wish to make a statement with our store, represent something, show who we are, and ensure that everyone is welcome here. In this context, our events are key. We adopt an interdisciplinary approach, combining fashion, art, culture, food, and music. Isolated trends are less relevant today. It is much more important to convey entire lifestyle worlds.”
That still raises the question of which products underline this fundamental shift. Vincent Unden-Dimou says: “Purchasing is currently extremely demanding. Products can achieve hype status overnight, only to be rendered irrelevant again shortly afterwards. If you chase this cycle, you can only stand to lose. This makes it all the more important for buyers to have a very clear identity. Today, men are looking for clothes that suit them and make them feel good about themselves. In fact, this applies to all our customers – regardless of gender. That is why we try to break down rigid categories as best we can in our store. Just because we buy styles from the womenswear collections of brands, it does not mean that we have to designate them as such on the sales floor. We hang the goods the way we like them, thereby reflecting the zeitgeist.” Katarina Unden-Dimou also identifies the opportunity for retailers to focus on their own DNA. “We buy very much by feel and focus on products that we personally believe in. For me, it is not about differentiating between womenswear, menswear, or genderless fashion – these are ultimately just categories. It is far more crucial to reach a point where everyone can wear what they like.”
Fluid Formula
As a matter of fact, the trend towards fluid fashion is nothing new as such. On the contrary, womenswear and menswear have always drawn inspiration from each other. Armani’s flowing suits in the 1980s probably had a more profound long-term impact than many of today’s runway productions. In line with the adage that every trend causes a countermovement, segments of the market are currently experiencing a resurgence of traditional masculinity. However, as with fluid fashion, this is more of a fringe phenomenon than a commercial formula for success.
So, how does a traditional men’s outfitter interpret the current situation? The question goes to Sebastiaan Vadasz, co-founder of Swiss menswear and tailoring specialist Pelikamo: “I can only speak from our perspective and would never claim that this reflects a broader trend. However, the suit is currently performing very well again, especially among our target group of urban professionals. We are observing that classic role models are once again stepping to the fore. Our customers are turning their attention to familiar images. What does a traditional banker, a lawyer, or someone from the tech industry wear? Such images are strongly influencing purchasing decisions.” Bespoke is equally popular, and the overall look is becoming more classic: “À la Loro Piana or Brunello Cucinelli – featuring high-quality materials and plenty of natural tones. It is also exciting that our customers‘ approach to aesthetics is evolving. In my opinion, men are much more attracted to beautiful pieces these days. In the past, the car was the main status symbol, but now other aspects are gaining in relevance. How their home looks, for example, but also art and culture.”
Hugo Boss Creative Director Marco Falcioni shares this observation in our lead interview: “Over the past decade, gender fluidity has for sure reshaped menswear – though perhaps not on the same visible scale as in womenswear. I would rather argue that there is a gender fluidity in the attitude of men towards their wardrobe. The attention men pay to what they wear, care products, and brands has certainly changed dramatically.” This includes a new focus on individualism, on a wholly personal interpretation of matters.
Individuality is the guiding principle at The Cave in Palma. The store itself is an absolute must-see, designed and managed by Iside Pellegrino Preite and Roberto Zampiero. Both are deeply rooted in the fashion world. Roberto is an art director, Iside a photographer. Together they also founded Artwork Hub, a design-thinking agency that offers creative direction, as well as production and consulting services for fashion brands. The couple, originally from Italy, initially moved to Ibiza before relocating to Palma, where they opened their own concept store. The location is a treasure and was treated as such during the renovation. The original terrazzo floor was laid bare; the Mares wall made of Mallorca sandstone was carefully cleaned. The cash desk and changing areas were designed by Roberto and Iside themselves to blend seamlessly into the overall concept. “A brutalist vibe, though not cold or impersonal,” says Iside Pellegrino Preite. The duo also relies on a similar interplay of contrasts in their range. “Roberto is heavily inspired by the US West Coast and Nordic aesthetics – always combined with our Italian DNA. And that is exactly what appeals to our customers. They are looking for this sweet spot – sharply cut suit pants in contrast to wild, expressive shirts. Sometimes sneakers, sometimes polished loafers. We merge timeless tailoring with up-and-coming streetwear voices, creating looks with personality and edge.”
Authentic Answers
So, what can we deduce from these findings for the spring/summer 2026 season? Men are gradually abandoning classic status symbols and thus logos and hype, but not quality and fit. The color cards are correspondingly calm, while the material palettes are appropriately elaborate. Steffl-Buyer Rafael Duleba coined the term “quiet cool”. Tailoring is important, yet discreet. Workwear-inspired details lend a contemporary look. Menswear draws performance features from the world of sport. Brands that combine functionality with elegance define this segment. Streetwear is moving away from hype and becoming more wearable, more cultivated. Grace Wales Bonner’s latest collection for Adidas is a recent example, though only one of many. This is about blending relaxed tailoring, performance, and cultural references.
Maybe this text offers more answers than one might initially realize. In any case, one message is clear: fashion should not allow us to lose ourselves in a discourse about boundaries and rigid rules. It should provide orientation but also afford freedom for individual expression.
Consumers have long since outgrown being pigeonholed – and perhaps they no longer need a classic role model. Matthew McConaughey once said in his Oscar speech that he had to have someone “to chase” – a hero of sorts. He was not referring to a stranger, but to his future self. When the role model is oneself, fashion transforms into a tool for self-realization. Like a blank canvas that serves as a stage for personality. This is the stuff that modern menswear is made of: stitching modern manhood.
