Marco Falcioni X Mathis Molinié

Archetype to Attitude

Modern menswear is caught in a paradox. Traditional archetypes are being questioned or outright dismantled. But what is rising in their place? To explore this moment of change, we brought together two voices from very different worlds: Marco Falcioni, Creative Director at global fashion brand Hugo Boss, and Mathis Molinié, chef at Restaurant Philippe in Rouen and a rising digital presence. Under Falcioni’s creative direction, Boss and Hugo have repositioned themselves around ideas of reinvention and modern identity, while Molinié represents a new kind of public figure – approachable, influential, and grounded in real life. Their conversation delves into the search for new sources of inspiration and the meaning of cultural relevance over fleeting hype.

For decades, men’s fashion revolved around clearly defined role models – each with an aspirational look. Today, many of those figures are being questioned, if not entirely dismantled. Traditional masculinity is under scrutiny, yet no new dominant blueprint has emerged. Does menswear still need role models?

Marco Falcioni, Creative Director Boss: In my opinion, we will always have role models. But society – and how it evolves – shapes who those role models are. When it comes to style, we have clearly moved away from the icons of the past. I have always admired figures like Gianni Agnelli or John F. Kennedy – style icons with a consistent, refined aesthetic, often loyal to specific brands and tailoring codes. Today’s icons are more fluid. Take Timothée Chalamet – his style is constantly evolving. Right now, he is channeling vintage vibes; three years ago, it was more contemporary. He is straight, but his energy and style project a fluid sensibility. A$AP Rocky is another great example – bold, fluid, and experimental. Then there are timeless figures like David Beckham, whose style shifts effortlessly from a ripped denim to a sharply tailored suit. But even he is not pushing for a traditional sense of masculinity – it is more relaxed, more modern. Role models still exist, but they reflect the times and a wider range of identities.

Mathis Molinié, Chef at Restaurant Philippe: I agree that we have always had role models, but what is fascinating is the shift in what defines them. It is less about a specific physical appearance or a rigid set of external qualities, and more about the passion and character of the person. This is a much more profound connection, I believe. Style, in this context, becomes something deeply personal that truly shows the universe of that individual – their thoughts, their craft, their values. It is about what they do, their dedication, and the unique perspective they bring to their field, whether it is art, sport, or cuisine.

That is a great segue. Marco, with style becoming more personal and less about dominant macro-trends, what kind of aesthetic does a brand like Boss stick to?

Marco Falcioni: I think we can all agree that macro trends are history by now. You cannot walk out of Fashion Week or a shopping spree and pinpoint one precise trend. Frankly speaking, this is great; it is the ultimate confirmation of individualism, which I really like. This is one of the most significant mindset shifts we aim to convey to our customers: moving away from the suit as a rigid business uniform toward embracing the suit as a form of personal expression and enjoyment. Blazers with denim, for example, are back – a classic 90s combination that merges American casual wear and European sartorialism. So, it is not about rules anymore. It is about individualism and your own interpretation of suiting and sportswear.

Individualism is a perfect bridge into my next topic: gender-fluid fashion. Coming from womenswear, I feel it has seen more commercial success there. How do you view the role and relevance of gender neutrality in fashion today? Mathis, maybe you would like to start?

Mathis Molinié: Historically, women have always borrowed from men’s wardrobes. What is new is seeing men confidently adopt elements traditionally associated with women’s fashion. You see this shift clearly on social media, with guys styling womenswear into really unique looks. It is refreshing. This mutual exchange opens up fashion as a playful, expressive space.

Marco, what is your take on this? Especially considering Boss’ strong background in menswear?

Marco Falcioni: Let us be honest, we owe a lot to pioneers like Coco Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent, who blurred these lines long ago. Marlene Dietrich, too, was a master of masculine-feminine play. Over the past decade, gender fluidity has for sure reshaped menswear – though perhaps not on the same (visible) scale as the other way around. I would rather argue that there is a gender fluidity in the attitude of men towards their wardrobe. The attention men pay to what they wear, the products they use, the brands they buy from, has certainly changed in the last ten years. I have straight friends talking to me about Korean beauty routines, for example. So, to come back to your question: it is happening on a different scale than in womenswear, but it is happening. When it comes to Boss, of course, our man still refers to certain archetypes and codes, which are coming back, by the way. Yet, the love for softer fabrics, certain hand-feels, constructions, and silhouettes, which were historically more in the women’s wardrobe, is now affecting our male client. You probably would not see a Boss client in a skirt, but you would see him in a fluid cashmere coat, definitely.

The headline we are exploring for this issue is “relevance”, and everyone seems to have a slightly different definition for that term. What is your personal definition of relevance, especially from your professional viewpoints?

Marco Falcioni: In the context of fashion, staying relevant is one of the biggest challenges we face as brands and creative directors. For me, relevance starts with a clear understanding of what you stand for – because authenticity is absolutely key to connecting with the consumer, or with our fans, as we prefer to call them. So first, define your purpose. Then, you need to consistently demonstrate that purpose – not just talk about it occasionally. To avoid becoming redundant or outdated, you have to ensure your values are continually evolving. I always say: 50% of a collection should be firmly rooted in the brand’s DNA, while the other 50% should push boundaries. I really challenge my team to create something new – something with a fresh perspective. That is how we remain relevant: by filtering out the noise and focusing on what truly matters to the brand.

Mathis Molinié: For me, relevance is born from a deep-seated passion and an unwavering authenticity. We are drawn to people, and by extension to brands, because we genuinely appreciate what they do and the sincere passion with which they do it. It is not about a fleeting image or a manufactured persona; it is about a true, heartfelt connection. A relevant brand, as Marco has already put it, is one that consistently and genuinely reflects what they stand for and does so with a passion that ignites something in others. To me, it is this palpable dedication that builds trust and creates a lasting impact.

Given the strong performance of Boss in recent years, it is clear the brand is getting a lot of things right. In your view, Marco, what do you think has been key to that success?

Marco Falcioni: I hope we are doing a lot of things right at Boss – thank you. But of course, not everything always works out. Sometimes you have to try and fail in order to get it right. For me, failure is one of the greatest opportunities to learn. There are brands out there doing incredible work. What all of them, and also Boss, share, is a sharp message and a strong sense of identity at their core, that they bring to life. They are able to connect the dots and create a bulletproof brand experience by cutting through the noise and staying focused. I also believe another key element is a sense of community and belonging. Sure, you want a product because it is beautifully made and valuable – but also because it connects you to a certain community. And on social media, Mathis, I think that sense of community becomes even more visible. People want to be part of something bigger. They invest their money, their time, and their energy into that community – and they defend it. That sense of belonging is what truly drives the success of a brand or a talent.

I see Mathis agrees with you on that – and so do I. Fashion is becoming less and less about the superficial – it is increasingly about depth and meaning. In our womenswear chapter, we explore the idea of substance over status – a shift away from logos toward brands that reflect personality and lifestyle. Do you see a similar movement in menswear?

Marco Falcioni: Honestly, I think women are significantly ahead of men in this regard. It has somehow always been a bit like this – men tend to focus more on status, while women prioritize substance, whether in fashion, art, or culture. But in general, I definitely agree with that observation.

Mathis Molinié: From my perspective, substance is undeniably becoming increasingly important – and rightly so. However, I believe that iconic luxury houses will always occupy a unique and special place in our collective imagination. They have the power to inspire dreams and often symbolize aspiration precisely because they remain out of reach for most people. This element of dreaming, of striving for something extraordinary, is a fundamental human desire. It’s essential for all of us to have these sources of inspiration. So, high-end luxury brands offer that dreamlike, aspirational quality, which holds its own distinct value and allure alongside the growing demand for authenticity, substance, and personal meaning.

Touching on your personal styles, do you have any fashion role models or people who inspire you?

Marco Falcioni: For my personal style, not really, I simply choose what I like. But I am strongly influenced by what is around me. For example, after returning from a holiday in Texas, I showed up at the office wearing cowboy boots, just because. When it comes to clothes, I usually stick to my jeans and t-shirts. It is funny – I am a creative director at a suit company, yet I wear a suit maybe twice a year. But when I do, I do so because it really feels right. When it comes to inspiration from others, I am drawn to some emerging designers. Grace Wales Bonner for example, is incredible; she channels a very sophisticated aesthetic grounded in cultural context, which is hard to do without falling into clichés – yet she never does.

Mathis, how about you?

Mathis Molinié: I have no specific style icon in the traditional fashion sense either. My greatest role model, the person I have always looked up to, is my father. He is incredibly passionate about everything he does, with a profound dedication to his craft. That unwavering commitment and love for his work is what truly inspires me – and always has done.

Marco, in fashion we have been talking for quite a while about the blending of streetwear and formalwear. How relevant are streetwear influences today? Has the trend already peaked?

Marco Falcioni: I hope so, personally! (laughs) But listen, I like to frame it slightly differently. If you allow me, I would like to talk about “street style” rather than “streetwear”. Obviously, in the last few years, streetwear has been dominant – luxury houses selling hoodies for 900 Euros and basketball caps for 500 Euros. I think that is fading out. What is still important, and always will be, is street style. Fashion creative directors and design teams in my opinion cannot be in an ivory tower looking top-down; they have to be on the street and see what people wear. For me personally, that is the biggest source of inspiration. So, street style is very, very relevant, has always been, and will always be. Streetwear, not so much anymore.

This connects directly to what we at style in progress refer to as cultural relevance – a quality we believe brands should be focusing on more than ever. From a product perspective, that means shifting away from hype-driven moments and moving toward pieces that are not only wearable but also rooted in a deeper cultural narrative. What is your take on that?

Marco Falcioni: Absolutely. It is again about the sense of belonging, of standing for something. Fashion has always been about mirroring the times. Now, our challenge is not just to mirror but to fill the brands with values that represent the times.

Mathis Molinié: I am also convinced, that cultural relevance is absolutely key – and it is shifting. For decades, traditional role models often came from the worlds of film or sports – figures who were often quite distant. Coming from the world of hospitality and cuisine, I find that my community values a different kind of connection – one built on accessibility and shared experience. People can perhaps connect more easily with someone like me because the interaction feels more direct, more grounded, more “boy next door” than that of a distant movie star. They can relate to the passion for food, for creating, for sharing. This relatability, this sense of being approachable and part of their world, is what makes the connection culturally relevant and ultimately much stronger and more meaningful today.

Talking about connection: in an age where digital presence often defines first impressions, how is social media shaping what is considered stylish or relevant in menswear?

Marco Falcioni: Social media plays a crucial role because it creates a bridge between the runway and real life. As Mathis mentioned, it is often those individuals who feel relatable yet have a strong sense of style who help translate what we admire on the runway into something tangible and wearable. The runway is a beautiful spectacle, a source of inspiration – but it is when you see that same jacket, those shoes, or that bag integrated into someone’s everyday look that the magic really happens.

Mathis Molinié: I completely agree. What we see on the runway is often a heightened form of creative expression, which is inspiring but can sometimes feel very far away from what ordinary people can realistically achieve or feel comfortable incorporating into their daily look. When you see an influencer style a piece, you understand how it can be integrated into your actual wardrobe. He or she is somewhat like a “middle person”, a translator of trends, if you want to put it that way.

I would like to finish with one last insight. If there were one word that the fashion industry, or even society in general, should embrace more, what would it be? Mathis, would you like to start?

Mathis Molinié: I guess for me it would be “passion”. Passion represents so many vital things and is a powerful, driving force. When someone genuinely shows their passion for what they do, it has the ability to truly inspire people and make that individual, or their work, more relevant and resonant within their community. People are drawn to that authentic energy; they follow you because they connect with that fire.

Marco Falcioni: For me, the word would be togetherness. Society today feels deeply fractured – divisive and dividing. If there is one meaningful role fashion can play, it is to bring people together. And I do not mean inclusivity in the buzzword sense – it is a term that has been used so often it risks losing its impact. I am talking about genuine connection – not just within our own familiar circles, but across different communities. True togetherness means building bridges, fostering understanding, and creating spaces where people feel seen, heard, and united.

I truly believe these two words – passion and togetherness – are deeply intertwined. Few things connect us more profoundly or strengthen our sense of belonging like a shared passion. Thank you both for this truly insightful and inspiring conversation.

Marco Falcioni: Thank you, Lisa. And Mathis, we need to cook together next time I am in France. I am from Rome. I can do the perfect carbonara.

Mathis Molinié: Deal – I am looking forward to it already! Thank you both.

Marco Falcioni

He is the Roman man behind the creative upswing at Hugo Boss: Marco Falcioni. As Creative Director, he is instrumental in shaping the design direction of both brands – Boss and Hugo. With a keen sense of design and a pronounced entrepreneurial mindset, he has not only redefined the visual language of the brands but also strengthened their position on the international market. All this despite the fact that, as he reveals in the interview, he rarely wears suits himself. The Italian finds inspiration “on the street”, streetwear is his main source of inspiration, and his cell phone is brimming with photos of passers-by.

He attributes Hugo Boss’ continued success to a clear brand identity – a strong DNA that is consistently refined. And to community: “People do not merely invest in well-crafted products, they invest in a community, in a sense of connection.”

Mathis Molinié

Mathis Molinié is head chef at the Philippe restaurant in Rouen, as well as one of the most exciting voices of a new generation of culinary
and digital role models. At his side: His greatest role model and mentor, his father Philippe, with whom he not only maintains the family restaurant, but also reinterprets it.

Mathis Molinié embodies passion in both the kitchen, and in life. He is convinced that authenticity is key in a world that is often reduced
to outward appearances. This is precisely why hundreds of thousands follow him on TikTokand Instagram.

Today, he combines two worlds: the analog world of traditional French hospitality and the digital world of social media. Through his success online, he is also being recognized beyond the kitchen – as part of a new Generation in men’s fashion that is abandoning traditional role models in favor of an open, contemporary interpretation of style and identity.